Tuesday, August 12, 2014

New Routin' in The Canyon

Climbing conditions are currently great here on the Sheep Ranch and the psych is ordinary high.

Earlier this year, I wrote something about climbing in Rodger's Canyon. A nice little dolomite canyon just north out of town. The canyon already has a good amount of established lines put up in 2006 by local climbing legends Davin Bagondas and Josh Helke. After making quick effort with repeating almost every established line in the canyon and putting up a line of my own, called "The Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre".
The next logical step was to bolt the lines which haven't been put up yet. Equipped with about 12 Bolts donated by the generous Wes Gooch & Climbing Wyoming, 20 bolts of my own and a extremely sexy hammer drill provided by Davin Bagondas, it was time to declare a bolt war to Rodger's Canyon.

In the following is a list of all routes, which recently went up in Rodger's Canyon

Bolting Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre 5.12c



 Family Business 5.12c/d FA: Philipp & Alex Peters
Start on obvious flake and move up on techy and sustained face climbing. Move left on the second bolt and up through the bulge to a 2 bolt anchor.
4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor 
At the base of Family Business 5.12c


Weltmeister 5.12c/d FA: Philipp & Alex Peters, 
In honor to the German Soccer Team of 2014 and their victory in the Fifa World Cup. Start on small boulder at the base and move up on small side pulls, crimps and long reaches. Very sustained and on from the first move. Stick Clip the First Bolt is recommended.

4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor 
Bolting Weltmeister 5.12c/d
These two lines have yet not seen a repeated. Both routes were envisioned by my father Alex, and he is probably the only reason why these routes went up. All bolts for those routes were donated by Wes Gooch and Climbing Wyoming 

When I Was A Young Boy I Had Me A Beer 5.11b FA: Philipp Peters, 2.Ascent Jon Kephart
When I Was A Young Boy, starts to the right of Jesse has homework and follows 3 bolts to the same anchor as Jesse has Homework. The climbing consists mainly of tricky face climbing on side pulls and requires a lot of balance as well as a good technique. This route teaches you how to slab climb.
3 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor
Jon Kephart on When I Was A Young Boy I Had Me A Beer 5.11b

 Yamato Damashii 5.11b FA: Philipp Peters, 2.Ascent Jon Kephart
 Do you have some Yamato Damashii? Shares the first bolt with When I Was A Young Boy and then moves up and right into the gray face with side pulls and pockets. Look for your feet, instead of just pulling hard.
4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor
Jon Kephart on Yamato Damashii 5.11b



Hungry In Hungary 5.11a FA: Philipp Peters, 2. Ascent Spencer Moul
Dedicated to a local Laramie climber, who managed to get stuck in Budapest for multiple days without money. This route involves beautiful face climbing on a black arete with pockets and crimps. Start the same as Small Steps and then break out right, following black bolts. 
5 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor
Bolting the Anchor of a new route in Rogers



Nicks Amazing Face Proj 5.10c FA: Philipp Peters, 2. Ascent Evan Martin
This route is the most amazing face climb in Rogers Canyon, even tho it consists mostly of crack climbing. Follow the amazing crack of Neg. Creep Direct for the first 3 Bolts, before breaking out to the right to a horizontal crack from which you clip the 4th bolt and bust out some nice face moves on nice but sharp pockets. 
4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor
Equipping Nuclear Powered Chewing Gum

Nuclear Powered Chewing Gum 5.10d FA: Philipp Peters, 2.Ascent Jon Kephart
This route is the direct finish to In Orbit. If it would be a single route, the grade would be around 5.10b/c. Climb the first 4 bolts of In Orbit and then finish off straight through the roof to a chained anchor. 
6 Bolts to 2 Bolt Chain Anchor

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