Euro-trash Invasion in the Buffalo Republic

Euro-trash Climber: An individual in the pursuit to bolt every piece of rock he can find. Euro-trash climbers are most easily recognized by comparing climbing area's to Europe, wearing hand jamies, lay back cracks and yell encouraging words such as Allez or Venga in excess.

A typical Euro Trash Climber. The camo doesn't help.

 The year is almost over and more and more snow starts to accumulate in front of my window. It is dark at 4 in the afternoon, and 0 degrees Celsius can be considered short and flip flop weather, here on the sheep ranch. However, recently my good friend Andrew and I invested an incredible amount of time into developing a new area called the Confederate Territory. No, this climbing area is not south of the Mason Dixon Line. nor does it have any other southern characteristic. There is no form of sedimentary rock, no fried chicken, no swamps and also no cotton. However, there is an incredible amount of smooth, golden granite, that just asked to be bolted. And you know why? Because Eurotrash Johnny Sauerkraut, got his dirty euro fingers on a good amount of bolts and a Bosch.  So after a shorter exploration hike, to assess the quality of the rock and the difficulty of the approach, Andrew and I started our hike up the Calvary, fully equipped with 2 Bosch's, about 30 nice and shiny 3/8 expansion bolts and the essential crowbar. Our little expedition was joined by Andrews brother Chris and Ryan. After a pilgrimage through dark forests, big talus fields and some other vegetation, we finally arrived at the Mississippi Burning Wall. The first wall in a series of shark fins, that rise from the Wyoming plains. In the following is a photographic collection of some of the new routes that went up. 

Chris, Andrew and Ryan getting psyched

Ryan on the ground up FA of The White Knights 5.9

The White Knights 5.9, 

Andrew on the FA of Trailer park fire 5.11

Johnny S. on Trailer Park Fire

Chris on Florida Georgia Line Approved 5.10 

Chris on Florida Georgia Line Approved

Andrew on Trailer Park Fire

New Routin' in the Canyon Vol. II

Recently I made a short Blog Post about the recent development efforts, I had put into Rogers Canyon. This was about 7-10 days ago. At that point, I had already established eight routes in the canyon. Two of those with the help of my dad Alex. The rest independently. Time went by quick! After going through all my notes I realized that yet again I managed to put up another 8 routes in the canyon. Of course all of this wouldn't have been possible without the great support of Andrew Hudson. Without his dedication, inspiration and donation of anchor chains as well as tools, I would probably not added a single new line to the canyon. What follows is a list with descriptions of most of the new routes that went up recently.

Hueco Rodeo (5.10c) FA: Andrew Hudson & Philipp Peters 2.Ascent: Spencer M.
Second farthest route on the right side of the amphitheater. Starts in a big hueco, do some cool moves towards a small ledge and do a wild feet over your head mantle. This route is like riding a bull. Stay on it and try not to get crushed. DO IT!!!

Spencer Moul on Hueco Rodeo, belayed by Andrew Hudson

Texas Chainsaw (5.10b) FA: Andrew Hudson & Philipp Peters 2.Ascent: Spencer M.

The last route on the far right side of the Amphitheater. Start in a Hueco and move up the technical face on sidepulls and such. A nice addition to the Canyon. 

Philipp placing the anchor of Texas Chainsaw

The Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre Direct (5.13a) FA: Philipp Peters

Climb up the straight silver bolt line on the arete of Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre. Joins the 5.12c at the second bolt. The start is a V7/8 boulder problem to a 5.12c finish. 

A psyched Rachel E. belays while another new route goes down

Scarface and A Fist Full Of Cocaine (5.11d) FA: Philipp Peters 2.Ascent: Jon K.

My least proudest FA of all time. A short boulder problem to the anchors of Jesse Has Homework. Personally not worth doing, except you climbed all routes in Rogers. This route has a high first bolt and is to the left of Jesse Has Homework. 

Andrew on one of the new routes up in Rogers Canyon

Treinta y Tres Orientales (5.12d) FA: Philipp Peters & Andrew Hudson

This route is to the left of Family Business. Powerful face climbing with hard clips with a throw to a big jug at the end. This route got it all. A nice addition.

Rachel E. pulling through the crux of Yamato Damashii 

Good Bye Lenin! (5.12c/d) FA: Philipp Peters 

This route was an old Josh Helke Project I believe. The first route to the left of Chris Can't Fly. Powerful climbing through the roof, to a very balancy powerful face crux. Sick Line!

Would you trust your life to this handsome guy or old 1/4 inch Bolt?

Brezhnev Doctrine (5.13a?) FA: Philipp Peters

This route was an old Josh Helke Project I believe as well. Second route to the left of Chris Can't Fly. Powerful and partially big moves along a rail for 3 bolts, before joining Good Bye Lenin, for it's tricky face finish. Pumpy and Powerful climbing all the way. 

Andrew pulling the crux of Guernica (5.12c/d)

Guernica (5.12c/d) FA: Philipp Peters & Andrew Hudson
Just to the right of Ovulation Station. Tricky bouldery crimp start, to sustained but easier climbing. A nice addition to the canyon. 

The author scoping out a new line in Rogers Canyon

Rachel enjoying the Rogers Dolomite

New Routin' in The Canyon

Climbing conditions are currently great here on the Sheep Ranch and the psych is ordinary high.

Earlier this year, I wrote something about climbing in Rodger's Canyon. A nice little dolomite canyon just north out of town. The canyon already has a good amount of established lines put up in 2006 by local climbing legends Davin Bagondas and Josh Helke. After making quick effort with repeating almost every established line in the canyon and putting up a line of my own, called "The Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre".
The next logical step was to bolt the lines which haven't been put up yet. Equipped with about 12 Bolts donated by the generous Wes Gooch & Climbing Wyoming, 20 bolts of my own and a extremely sexy hammer drill provided by Davin Bagondas, it was time to declare a bolt war to Rodger's Canyon.

In the following is a list of all routes, which recently went up in Rodger's Canyon

Bolting Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre 5.12c

 Family Business 5.12c/d FA: Philipp & Alex Peters
Start on obvious flake and move up on techy and sustained face climbing. Move left on the second bolt and up through the bulge to a 2 bolt anchor.
4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor 

At the base of Family Business 5.12c

Weltmeister 5.12c/d FA: Philipp & Alex Peters, 

In honor to the German Soccer Team of 2014 and their victory in the Fifa World Cup. Start on small boulder at the base and move up on small side pulls, crimps and long reaches. Very sustained and on from the first move. Stick Clip the First Bolt is recommended.

4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor 

Bolting Weltmeister 5.12c/d

These two lines have yet not seen a repeated. Both routes were envisioned by my father Alex, and he is probably the only reason why these routes went up. All bolts for those routes were donated by Wes Gooch and Climbing Wyoming 

When I Was A Young Boy I Had Me A Beer 5.11b FA: Philipp Peters, 2.Ascent Jon Kephart

When I Was A Young Boy, starts to the right of Jesse has homework and follows 3 bolts to the same anchor as Jesse has Homework. The climbing consists mainly of tricky face climbing on side pulls and requires a lot of balance as well as a good technique. This route teaches you how to slab climb.

3 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor

Jon Kephart on When I Was A Young Boy I Had Me A Beer 5.11b

 Yamato Damashii 5.11b FA: Philipp Peters, 2.Ascent Jon Kephart

 Do you have some Yamato Damashii? Shares the first bolt with When I Was A Young Boy and then moves up and right into the gray face with side pulls and pockets. Look for your feet, instead of just pulling hard.

4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor

Jon Kephart on Yamato Damashii 5.11b

Hungry In Hungary 5.11a FA: Philipp Peters, 2. Ascent Spencer Moul

Dedicated to a local Laramie climber, who managed to get stuck in Budapest for multiple days without money. This route involves beautiful face climbing on a black arete with pockets and crimps. Start the same as Small Steps and then break out right, following black bolts. 

5 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor

Bolting the Anchor of a new route in Rogers

Nicks Amazing Face Proj 5.10c FA: Philipp Peters, 2. Ascent Evan Martin

This route is the most amazing face climb in Rogers Canyon, even tho it consists mostly of crack climbing. Follow the amazing crack of Neg. Creep Direct for the first 3 Bolts, before breaking out to the right to a horizontal crack from which you clip the 4th bolt and bust out some nice face moves on nice but sharp pockets. 

4 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor

Equipping Nuclear Powered Chewing Gum

Nuclear Powered Chewing Gum 5.10d FA: Philipp Peters, 2.Ascent Jon Kephart

This route is the direct finish to In Orbit. If it would be a single route, the grade would be around 5.10b/c. Climb the first 4 bolts of In Orbit and then finish off straight through the roof to a chained anchor. 

6 Bolts to 2 Bolt Chain Anchor