Monday, August 25, 2014

New Routin' in the Canyon Vol. II

Recently I made a short Blog Post about the recent development efforts, I had put into Rogers Canyon. This was about 7-10 days ago. At that point, I had already established eight routes in the canyon. Two of those with the help of my dad Alex. The rest independently. Time went by quick! After going through all my notes I realized that yet again I managed to put up another 8 routes in the canyon. Of course all of this wouldn't have been possible without the great support of Andrew Hudson. Without his dedication, inspiration and donation of anchor chains as well as tools, I would probably not added a single new line to the canyon. What follows is a list with descriptions of most of the new routes that went up recently.

Hueco Rodeo (5.10c) FA: Andrew Hudson & Philipp Peters 2.Ascent: Spencer M.
Second farthest route on the right side of the amphitheater. Starts in a big hueco, do some cool moves towards a small ledge and do a wild feet over your head mantle. This route is like riding a bull. Stay on it and try not to get crushed. DO IT!!!
Spencer Moul on Hueco Rodeo, belayed by Andrew Hudson
Texas Chainsaw (5.10b) FA: Andrew Hudson & Philipp Peters 2.Ascent: Spencer M.
The last route on the far right side of the Amphitheater. Start in a Hueco and move up the technical face on sidepulls and such. A nice addition to the Canyon. 
Philipp placing the anchor of Texas Chainsaw

The Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre Direct (5.13a) FA: Philipp Peters
Climb up the straight silver bolt line on the arete of Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre. Joins the 5.12c at the second bolt. The start is a V7/8 boulder problem to a 5.12c finish. 
A psyched Rachel E. belays while another new route goes down

Scarface and A Fist Full Of Cocaine (5.11d) FA: Philipp Peters 2.Ascent: Jon K.
My least proudest FA of all time. A short boulder problem to the anchors of Jesse Has Homework. Personally not worth doing, except you climbed all routes in Rogers. This route has a high first bolt and is to the left of Jesse Has Homework. 
Andrew on one of the new routes up in Rogers Canyon

Treinta y Tres Orientales (5.12d) FA: Philipp Peters & Andrew Hudson
This route is to the left of Family Business. Powerful face climbing with hard clips with a throw to a big jug at the end. This route got it all. A nice addition.
Rachel E. pulling through the crux of Yamato Damashii 
Good Bye Lenin! (5.12c/d) FA: Philipp Peters 
This route was an old Josh Helke Project I believe. The first route to the left of Chris Can't Fly. Powerful climbing through the roof, to a very balancy powerful face crux. Sick Line!
Would you trust your life to this handsome guy or old 1/4 inch Bolt?
Brezhnev Doctrine (5.13a?) FA: Philipp Peters
This route was an old Josh Helke Project I believe as well. Second route to the left of Chris Can't Fly. Powerful and partially big moves along a rail for 3 bolts, before joining Good Bye Lenin, for it's tricky face finish. Pumpy and Powerful climbing all the way. 

Andrew pulling the crux of Guernica (5.12c/d)
Guernica (5.12c/d) FA: Philipp Peters & Andrew Hudson
Just to the right of Ovulation Station. Tricky bouldery crimp start, to sustained but easier climbing. A nice addition to the canyon. 
The author scoping out a new line in Rogers Canyon
Rachel enjoying the Rogers Dolomite




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