Spring Climbing in Wyoming/Colorado

Spring has finally come to Laramie and the Winter is finally over! Shit, I just looked out of my window and it started snowing again. It is April, and since the end of September it has been snowing on and of in Laramie. Some weeks that had temperatures lows of negative forty degrees fahrenheit. That's the type of temperature, where your nose freezes on the inside for every breath you take through it, and water freezes before it hits the ground. It's awesome! On top of that, the Laramie Wind Festival goes from January 1st to December 31st, with winds up to 70mph, which make life just miserable cold. Climbing in those conditions was impossible. Before you know, your toes and fingers go numb and if you are lucky, maybe once you made it home they will warm up. Since climbing was barely possible outside, except for some weekends, which were in the low twenties, I spent most of my time going campus boarding, training at my good friend Brian's bouldering wall, or got some crack training at Evan and Bart's Crack machine. But once March came along, I went to explore some new area's around Wyoming and Colorado, if the weather allowed it.

Vedauwoo in the deep winter

You know it's a good day, if icicles grow on your project. 

Carter Lake Bouldering

Brian on Big Flaky Pull Roof 

Carter Lake Reservoir, is a sandstone bouldering area in the hills above Loveland, Colorado. The boulders are mostly south facing, which makes it a perfect winter climbing destination. Once temps were above 32, Brian and I grabbed our pads, shoes and chalk bags and took on the 1.5 hour drive down to Colorado to finally get some climbing on real rock again. Getting out to Carter Lake, we finally felt the warmth of sun touching our skin. Something both of us haven't experienced in months. 5 min later, we both were bouldering in t-shirts trying the ultra classic Big Kahuna Roof. A very stiff V5. I managed to make a quick effort and send it in a couple of tries. While Brian got really really close, but unfortunately couldn't finish. We then moved uphill, where I managed to on-sight Daily Chuck Dose, V8. After that, we both did multiple V4's and V5's before we moved over to try a cool V5/V8 (multiple sources say different things about the grade) called Big Flaky Pull Roof. Again, Brian got super close, but had to give up on it after getting a flapper on one of fingertips.

Bloody Brian

When we headed back to the car, I had to find out that I got a parking ticket, which was of course not the most exciting thing after a great climbing day. But knowing that this was my first parking ticket ever, transformed even this event into something special, which deserved a little celebration, with pizza, ice cream and cookies once we were back in Laramie. That stuff is hella legit bro!

Sinks Canyon
Sinks Canyon in Lander with his south facing dolomite walls in Lander, Wyoming, is by far the best sport climbing are is saw in the entire United States. Since the weather in Laramie, still sucks, Toby, Brian and I decided that we should make a trip out to Lander, to finally rope up again. We left Laramie friday afternoon to make a 3 hour drive down to Lander, where we met up with Mike, Savannah, Forrest and Maria who are all true crushers from Jackson. After the usual shenanigans in the Lander Bar, we camped out in the City Park. The next morning psyche was high, truly indicated by the standard wake up question:

Mike: Philipp you know what time it is? 

Philipp: It's time to crush!!! 

After the standard breakfast, coffee and morning conversation, we drove up into Sinks Canyon and the crushing began. Brian and I warmed up on a nice 5.10, while the rest of the gang went to another sector to work on some projects they had from their last trip. After the warm up, Brian and I went to try Sunspot. A cool 5.11d, with a bouldery start. Brian worked on it for a while, getting really close on sending it, but in was to exhausted in the end to make the final effort, since the long winter had left him without endurance. He will be back soon to finish business, so watch out for those victory pictures! I was able to onsight Sunspot, but also had to experience what the lack of climbing in the winter did to my endurance, when I tried Killer 5.12c. A route legendary known for its pumpfest. After giving it a good burn, which ended with me having forearms with a similar size Idaho potatos, we decided to join the rest of the crew at the Brisket Wall. At the time we arrived at the Wall, wind had picked up, making climbing again your typical Wyoming wind fest, with debris and all kinds of stuff flying around. Not stopped by those conditions however, I managed to climb the Brisket (5.12c) on my second go. The first go, stopped right at the second quickdraw, where one of my feet popped, which led to a circumcision of my right thumb, which made continuing the attempt

"I just circumcised my thumb" Photo by Brian H.

impossible. Back at the ground, after pouring some liquid chalk and tape onto the cut, I pulled down the rope and finished the route without a problem.

Sending The Brisket (5.12c) Photo by Savannah C.

Crushing Spirit was in the air. So Mike and I went over to try Blue Moon (5.12a). Mike went first. He made a very strong attempt, falling off right at the end of the crux. I went next, flashing the route. Fired up through this, Mike went back up and cruised Blue Moon like a Ninja. Still not having enough from all this climbing, we both went over to the other side of the Cave, where I continued my run and on-sighted Spook Eyes (5.12b). After that and another 5.11c and a wind that started to grow in strength, we all decided it would be time to head back to the Lander Bar for a team dinner. Since Mike, Maria, Savannah and Forrest left early, we had dinner with Wes, Max and Jakub. Three strong climber and area developers from the Jackson area, which showed us pictures of some amazing walls in the Jackson area. A part of the state I will explore once I get of school. Besides that, did they also hook us up with some bolts for an unfinished project in Rogers Canyon in Laramie. After dinner, we started the long and boring drive back home to Laramie, with the certainty that we would be back very soon.

Rogers Canyon

Rogers Canyon, is a small dolomite cliff band right outside the city limit of Laramie. Mostly know for a lot of loose rock and sharp holds. I never really paid attention to it, since I live in Wyoming for less than a year and focused mainly on the cracks of Vedauwoo. However, in the Spring when it is still fairly cold up in the Voo, Rogers seemed like a good alternative for during the week getaways. On a Wednesday afternoon, Matt and I made the 10 minute drive out there and once arrived, I directly fell in love with the place. Not only that the climbing reminded me of climbing in my home area Freyr.

Andrew on The Negative Creep Direct

Andrew during a no Hands Rest in Neg. Creep Direct

Drilling a Bolt on Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre

Jon on The Negative Creep Direct

The style of climbing here is pull hard on sharp pockets and crimps. After we both climbed a nice 5.12a called The Negative Creep Direct, I tried a route to the left of it, which was bolted but seemed unclimbed. I managed to get through the crux, just to break of with a foothold in the upper part of the route. While topping out, I also had to find out that the anchor was missing. After some serious cleaning and drilling of a nice 2 bolt anchor with the friendly help of my friend Toby who provided the drilling tools and Wes Gooch from Climbing Wyoming who donated some bolts, I was able to climb the route on my second go. Giving me the FFA of Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre, with a proposed grade of 5.12c.

Jon in the Crux of Neg. Creep Direct

Johnny Sauerkraut during the FFA of  Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre

Pulling the Crux move during the FFA of Bavarian Bratwurst Massacre

That was the spring so far in Laramie. Stay tuned for more stories from the Sheep Ranch and Johnny Sauerkraut.